Scotland's Highlands: A Feast for the Senses

Everyone who follows my blog knows that Scotland takes the top in my bucket list.   And I finally did it! So in my narration, I will tell you where I went, and where I ate, and basically, what went on during my trip.

Planning a trip to Scotland was not easy.  It is not a common destination to most travelers.   Fact is, I didn't see any asian at all the whole time I was in Scotland , until I reached St. Andrews.  But it didn't deter me from planning and executing this trip.

What made this trip more challenging is that we've all been to scotland already.  What we wanted now is a more in-depth experience of the scottish life and culture, that would blow our minds away.  We need to develop an itinerary that is unlike those offered by tour companies.

Our itinerary involved flying from Manila to London, stay there for around 3 days, then fly to Inverness, rent a car, then drive towards the Isle of Skye before the sun goes down.  Stay in Skye for around 2 days, then drive towards Inverness for another 2 days.  Go to St. Andrews and stay there for 2 days, then drive to Edinburgh to drop off the rented car.  Fly from Edinburgh to London.  Stay in London for another 3 days before flying back to Manila.  I decided not to stay in Edinburgh anymore since I already spent a lot of time there a few years back.

I flew with Singapore Airlines the entire trip, and I must really commend this airlines for long haul trips.  I was on a tight budget so I bought economy class tickets but it was still comfortable, more than I expected it to be.  The stewardesses were beautiful , helpful and kind.  They made frequent rounds for beverages and snacks.  In-flight entertainment was varied and food was excellent.  (Airline ticket: $1,100).  But if you have money to spare, it is worth your bucks to go for business class, most especially if your destination is London.  There is a short line in immigration offered mainly for VIPs and those who travelled business class and first class.

In London .......  

I stayed at No. 5 Maddox Street in London.  No. 5 Maddox Street offers discreet one, two, three bedroom  boutique hotel suites , located in the quiet section of the stylish Mayfair section of London.  The hotel offers free Wifi in all parts of the hotel, free gym membership and REN skincare amenities. There are some days you will be surprised with bread basket outside your hotel door.  There is no lift but the all-around-man is very helpful in carrying your luggage.   Security is better than most hotel since no one can even enter the hotel premises without prior booking.                  

There is hardly any signage of the hotel.   But what made me stay in this hotel is the location.  Everything can be accessed by foot.  A few steps and you are in the busy street of St. Regent, where most shops are, like H&M, Molten Brown, Cos, etc.  In front of the hotel is a Subway outlet so you can grab a sandwich before starting your day. And around the corner is the famous EAT convenience store.  (One Bedroom Deluxe Suite:  approx.$600 per night)

Bread Basket outside our doors

I stayed in London for three days, basically to re-orient myself in the new time zone, and relax a bit before flying to Scotland.

For some reason, I always eat at Devonshire Arms in Kensington on the very first day I'm in London.  And since Im in London, what do I order, but Steak and Ale Pie and down it all with a Cider.  Yipee! ($20 per person)

Momo Cafe

Another great place to eat around my area is the Momo Cafe.  It's a casual dining place that offers mediterranean cuisine.  Don't miss ordering their tangine.  Yummy!

And don't even think of flying out of London without dining at Jamie's Italian located in Covent Gardens.  The food is divine and the atmosphere of the place is vibrant with their decors and upbeat music.   I am not an ice cream person.  Fact is I never get to finish a scoop of ice cream.  But Jamie's Italian changed all that with their Salted Caramel Ice Cream with honeycomb.





In Inverness ......
It's time to fly to Inverness.  It took us 1 hour to travel to Inverness via Easy Jet.  We landed in Gatwick Airport, which is the strictest airport I've ever encountered.  I have never been subjected to so much inspection my whole life.  But I must commend their patience and their understanding.  One recommendation: Pay the extra for Speedy Boarding.  It is all worth it.  Their airlines do not have reserved seats.  It's a first come-first serve and those with Speedy Boarding have first priority in seat selections, plus you get to skip the long long long long line of boarding.  (approx $140 per person).

 Upon landing to the airport, a representative of the rental company was there to meet us and give us our car.  Since we were not used to driving using a right-handed wheel, we opted to pay for the insurance, just in case we meet an accident. And that was quite likely in our minds!

In Isle of Skye ......

Peinmore House

We got our water and snacks supplies from the nearby supermarket, Tesco, before finally heading off to the Isle of Skye.   Total trip is around  3 hours.  It was imperative that we reach our destination before sundown, or it will be impossible for us to see the road.   Remember, we are going up the mountain and unlike the city, they don't have lamp posts everywhere, no stores, no fences.

Room with a view from Peinmore House

First hotel for the night, Peinmore House located at Portree.  This was a shot I took outside my bedroom window.  Simply breathtaking!

Margaret runs the place smoothly.  She would even make you fill up what breakfast treats you prefer to have.  Mine was always Scottish Full Breakfast (beans, mushrooms, eggs and cumberland sausages).

I stayed in Room 5 , which cost $255 per night.

Hot Scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream

We decided to make Portree our home base, while we drove around the hills and cliffs of Skye.  If you love to walk, this is the best place to be.  The vastness of the land coupled with those beautiful sceneries  will certainly inspire anyone to take a stroll or walk in quiet solitude.   This place has nothing like it.  As we explored Staffin, we chanced upon a tea place called The Small & Cosy Teahouse.  It's definitely a cosy place!  Their scones are melt-in-your-mouth delicious!  They serve it with homemade jams and clotted cream.




                                                                     While we drove around the hilly land of Skye, we were listening to the radio re-enactment of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet.  Maybe it's the english accent, but we were all entranced with this centuries-old drama.  And it somehow fits in the lochs and braes of Scotland, as well as the sheep and highland cows that grazed their lands so freely.

If there is one place that you shouldn't miss in Skye, it is dining in the Three Chimneys.  This is a MUST!  It is with great honor to be the recipient of Chef Michael Smith's creative dishes.  He explores the combination of
 ingredients that is unheard of,  which only results to such culinary delights.  The restaurant's ambiance is enhanced with the thick stone walls built around the 120 year old crofter's cottage.  The setting has a rustic feel to it, with its simple wooden tables, and yet it is intimate and cozy for its real fireplace and low chandeliers.

They change their menu regularly. So dining at Three Chimneys requires a bit of culinary adventure, but they make sure there is a vegetarian option.  They offer 3 course meals worth $110 and seven course meals worth around $170 per person.  This does not include drinks and service charge.

 If money is not a question to you, try to stay over their B&B,  The House Over-By.  The place earned much accolades from fellow travelers and I can only imagine how beautiful the bedrooms are, located in this quiet isolated place at Colbost.

Andy Race Smoked Haddock & Ham Terrine with Brunigill Farm Quail Egg, Syboes, Apple, Chicory & Grain Mustard

Back to Inverness .....

Cawdor Castle

It's time to go back to Inverness.  My main goal in Inverness is to visit Cawdor Castle, the inspiration in Shakespeare's Macbeth.  I read in the newspaper that it would open on May 1, 2012, so I made sure I was in Inverness around that time.

Cawdor Castle is located near the Inverness airport.  Aside from the big cauldron at the lower bailey, I see no obvious link of the castle to Shakespeare's tragic play.

I wanted so much to buy the Cawdor's Tartan Rug, but it cost double the usual scottish tartan rugs.  So I opted to buy other tartan rugs as my souvenir and highland music cd for my friend.

Culloden House

While in Inverness, we chose to stay at Culloden House, which is the hotel of choice of Prince Charles himself whenever he visits Inverness.  Aside from having a place in the Scottish history that goes all the way back to Bonnie Prince Charlie, Culloden House stands in 40 acres of land that boasts of breathtaking gardens that would entice anyone to stroll around this impressive property.  And I cannot reiterate enough that guests should allot time to take that walk.  Strolling in the gardens of Culloden House means venturing into a heady mixture of sweet mild breeze with flying crows and walking side by side with the pigeons. The whole experience is intoxicating for city-dwellers like me.  Bedrooms are spacious but a bit old.  The dining place provides excellent cuisine but please do not forget to spend time playing chess in their sitting room.  The chess pieces are unique and amusing.  See the picture across to understand what I mean.   ($350-400 per night)

St. Andrews ......

St. Andrews is a stunning medieval city that is home to golf with a romantic beach.  Because it houses the famous University of St. Andrews, its dwellers are mostly in the age group of Prince William and Kate Middleton.  If you need to shop for souvenirs in Scotland, St. Andrews is the right place to do it.  You would enjoy the walk along the shops that is no bigger than the biggest SM in Manila.  

My typical meal in Scotland

a peek into the garden of Rufflets

We stayed in Rufflets Country House Hotel, one of the oldest and most famous hotel in St. Andrews.  It stands in 10 acres of land and minutes away from the shopping place, beach, and golf area.  It  has 24 bedrooms and 4 cottages.  The gardens of Rufflets is the best I have seen so far.  It has pockets of tulip gardens, trees that resemble the cherry blossom in Japan, and small lakes.  They offer complimentary shortbread cookies for hotel guests in the comforts of your room.  Make sure you take a bite of this yummy goodness.  I did, and whoa! it's the best shortbread cookies I've ever tasted my whole life.  I purchased much of it that prompted the kitchen to make some more and which made me skip shopping at Fortnum & Mason in London.   ($500 per night)

Nahm-Jim

Trip in St. Andrews won't be complete without visiting Gordon Ramsay's vote for best thai restaurant, Nahm Jim.  And Gordon Ramsay's assessment is not without justification.  I still can't fathom how the best thai restaurant in the world is found in St. Andrews.  Its furnishings are not intimidating at all.  Its quite casual and staff were so friendly.  They took the time to give us a map and told us the best way to enjoy St. Andrews.  

Do order my favorite cocktail drink there, Saketini.  

One of the hunky thai waiters there talked to us at length.  And he mentioned that he just climbed a mountain in lochness and the view was spectacular.  I've been to lochness before but like any tourist, I simply took a cruise around lochness.  To climb a mountain to see the lochness in that point of view is an excellent idea.  Too bad we are towards the end of our trip.  

Beach at St. Andrews

Typical Full Scottish Breakfast

   

Hmm....  but the idea is way too good to ignore.  I think I just found another reason to come back to Scotland, once I replete my treasure chest.